Here's the reality most first-timers miss: Lake Ōnuma is only fully accessible from late April through mid-November. The access roads from Maebashi (Route 4) and from the western approach (Akagi Skyline) close for winter due to ice and snow. You'll see signs saying "通行止め" (Road Closed)—and they mean it. Local police enforce the closures. No exceptions, even for AWD vehicles with winter tires.
The best months are May through June (spring greenery, minimal crowds) and late September through October (autumn colors, crisp temperatures). Avoid Golden Week (late April/early May) and autumn foliage weekends (mid-October)—the parking area becomes a traffic jam, and the perimeter road turns into a walking path with cars creeping at 10km/h behind pedestrians.
Summer (July-August) brings humidity and afternoon thunderstorms. The lake is gorgeous, but the elevation drop in air pressure can trigger sudden weather changes. I've watched clear mornings turn into fog-soaked afternoons where visibility drops to 20 meters. If you're climbing Akagi in summer, start early—summit by 9:00 AM, enjoy the lake before the heat builds, descend before the 2:00 PM storm risk.
Winter is the forbidden season. The summit roads close completely, and Lake Ōnuma freezes over—thick enough for ice fishing (locals drill holes and fish for wakasagi smelt). But accessing the lake requires hiking or snowshoeing from lower elevations. No driving to the summit December through March. The RedSuns' winter training was done on lower slopes where roads stayed open, not at the frozen summit.
