Touge Town

TOUGE TOWN

1 km
Distance
Landmark
Type
Onsen
Feature
Cultural Landmark

Ikaho Stone Steps

The 365 stone steps through the heart of Ikaho Onsen are Gunma's most photographed hot spring street. Each step represents one day of the year, lined with traditional ryokan, souvenir shops, and steaming onsen baths.

Perfect rest day activity. Pair with Lake Haruna or Akina routes for a cultural break between touge sessions.

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External Links

language Official Website
schedule Open year-round
directions Get Directions from HQ

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365 STEPS, ONE YEAR: THE ONSEN TOWN AT HARUNA'S BASE

You don't drive to Ikaho—you walk it. The 365 stone steps (ishidan, 石段) climb through the heart of Ikaho Onsen town, each step representing one day of the year. This isn't a touge route. It's a cultural counterpoint—the place where Gunma's automotive adrenaline meets Japan's 1,400-year-old hot spring tradition.

Ikaho sits at 700 meters elevation on Mount Haruna's eastern slope, just 15 minutes downhill from Lake Haruna (Akina's summit endpoint). Geographically, it's where the mountain meets civilization. Culturally, it's where touge drivers go to decompress—to soak bruised muscles in mineral-rich onsen water, sleep in traditional ryokan, and reset mental state before the next mountain session.

The stone steps date to the Meiji Era (1868-1912), built to connect the lower town with upper hot spring sources. The 365-step symbolism came later—a marketing decision in the 1980s when Ikaho competed with nearby Kusatsu Onsen for tourist attention. It worked. Today, the steps are Gunma's most Instagrammed non-automotive landmark, drawing 2+ million visitors annually.

What makes Ikaho significant for car enthusiasts: It's part of the Haruna ecosystem. You can't separate Akina from Ikaho—locals who live at the mountain's base provide the services (gas stations, mechanics, restaurants) that make touge culture sustainable. Respecting Ikaho's tourism economy is how you respect Gunma's mountains. The two worlds coexist.

THE CLIMB: WHAT 365 STEPS ACTUALLY FEELS LIKE

Let's set realistic expectations: The stone steps aren't difficult. 365 steps at ~15cm rise each = ~55 meters of total elevation gain over 300 meters of horizontal distance. Average climb time: 15-20 minutes at tourist pace, stopping for photos and window shopping. If you're reasonably fit (able to drive touge without exhaustion), you'll manage easily.

The steps are divided into three sections: Lower steps (1-150, widest and most commercial), middle steps (151-300, narrower with traditional architecture), and upper steps (301-365, steepest with the main Ikaho Shrine at the summit). Each section has distinct character—lower is tourist trap, middle is atmospheric, upper is spiritual.

What lines the steps: Traditional ryokan (Japanese inns with onsen baths), souvenir shops (selling manju sweet buns, wooden kokeshi dolls, and Gunma agricultural products), foot baths (free public ashiyu for weary climbers), and onsen pipe channels running alongside the steps—you'll see and smell the sulfuric mineral water constantly.

Practical detail: The steps are slippery when wet. Winter ice (December-March) makes them treacherous—locals sand them daily, but wear grippy shoes. Summer humidity creates moss in shaded sections. Don't wear touge driving shoes (racing boots, stiff-soled sneakers)—bring walking shoes with tread.

ONSEN CULTURE: WHY HOT SPRINGS MATTER TO TOUGE DRIVERS

Here's what non-Japanese car enthusiasts often miss: Onsen bathing is recovery infrastructure for touge culture. After 3-4 hours of high-concentration mountain driving—managing hairpins, fighting lateral G-forces, maintaining precise throttle control—your body is wrecked. Shoulders tight, forearms cramped, lower back aching. Onsen soaking fixes this faster than anything else.

Ikaho's hot springs are "kogane no yu" (golden water)—iron-rich, rust-colored mineral water at 40-42°C. The iron content creates a distinctive orange stain on rocks and pipes. Medically, the minerals improve blood circulation, reduce muscle inflammation, and accelerate recovery from physical stress. Soak for 20 minutes post-touge, and muscle soreness drops 50%.

How it works: Day-use onsen bathing (higaeri nyuyoku) costs ¥500-1,500 at most Ikaho ryokan. You don't need to stay overnight. Walk in, pay at the front desk, get a towel rental (¥200), use the gender-separated communal baths, soak 20-30 minutes, rinse, leave. Total time: 45 minutes. Most ryokan along the stone steps offer this—look for "日帰り入浴" signs.

Cultural protocol: Shower before entering the communal bath (scrub stations provided). No swimsuits—bathing is done nude in gender-separated facilities. No tattoos in many traditional ryokan (they associate tattoos with yakuza). Respect the rules or don't use the onsen. This isn't negotiable.

Why this matters for Gunma tourism: Onsen culture is how multi-day touge trips stay sustainable. Drive Akina in the morning, soak at Ikaho midday, drive Akagi in the afternoon, soak again evening. Without recovery infrastructure, your body fails by day three. Ikaho provides that infrastructure. Use it.

IKAHO SHRINE: THE SPIRITUAL SUMMIT AT STEP 365

At the top of the 365 steps sits Ikaho Shrine (伊香保神社)—a small Shinto shrine dedicated to fertility, safe childbirth, and good fortune in relationships. This isn't a major pilgrimage site like Ise or Nikko, but it's locally significant for couples seeking blessings and travelers seeking protection on mountain roads.

The shrine's bright orange torii gate frames the final steps—photogenic as hell, especially during autumn when surrounding maple trees turn crimson. Most tourists photograph the torii, toss ¥5 into the offering box, clap twice, bow once, leave. The whole ritual takes 90 seconds. Locals treat it more seriously—you'll see elderly women praying for family health, young couples asking for relationship stability.

One quirk: Ikaho Shrine has ema prayer plaques where visitors write wishes. Among the usual prayers (health, success, love), you'll occasionally find touge-specific wishes—"請保佑我在赤城安全" (Please protect me on Akagi), "AE86のエンジンを守ってください" (Please protect my AE86's engine). Car enthusiasts pray here for safe driving. It's oddly touching.

Beyond the shrine: A viewing platform overlooks the Tone River valley and distant mountains. On clear days, you can identify Mount Akagi to the northeast, Mount Asama to the northwest. This is where you see Gunma's touge network spatially—the mountains you drove yesterday, the mountains you'll drive tomorrow, all visible from one elevated vantage point. Geographic context crystallizes.

PRACTICAL TOURISM: WHAT TO DO (AND SKIP) IN IKAHO

What's worth your time:

  • Climb the 365 steps (15-20 min) for the full atmospheric experience and Ikaho Shrine visit.
  • Day-use onsen bathing (45 min, ¥500-1,500)—pick any ryokan with "日帰り入浴" sign along the steps.
  • Manju tasting (5 min, ¥100-200)—Ikaho's specialty sweet bun filled with red bean paste, sold hot from shops along steps.
  • Foot bath break (free, 10 min)—several public ashiyu (foot baths) along the steps for quick muscle relief.

What to skip:

  • Souvenir shopping—overpriced tourist trinkets. Save money for gas and tires.
  • Ikaho Green Bokujo farm—20 min drive from steps, family-friendly animal petting zoo. Not relevant for car enthusiasts.
  • Weekday mid-morning visits (10 AM-2 PM)—tour bus crowds clog the steps. Visit early morning (7-9 AM) or late afternoon (4-6 PM).

Parking & access:

  • Free public lot at base of steps (50 spaces, fills by 10 AM on weekends).
  • Paid lots nearby (¥500/day)—use if public lot is full.
  • 15-minute drive downhill from Lake Haruna—perfect post-Akina activity.
  • Cellular signal: Full coverage. No navigation issues.

Timing recommendations:

  • Best season: Autumn (October-November) for maple foliage along steps.
  • Best time of day: Early morning (7-9 AM) before tour buses arrive.
  • Avoid: Golden Week (late April) and Obon (mid-August)—mobbed with domestic tourists.
  • Budget 2-3 hours total: 20 min climb + 45 min onsen soak + 20 min descent + 30 min buffer.

IKAHO'S LESSON: BALANCE IS PART OF THE CULTURE

Here's what Ikaho teaches that pure touge driving doesn't: Sustainability requires rest. Western car culture often glorifies the grind—back-to-back track days, sleepless road trips, pushing limits until something breaks (the car or the driver). Japanese touge culture has a different rhythmintense driving sessions alternated with recovery rituals.

Ryosuke Takahashi demonstrated this. The RedSuns didn't train on Akagi 24/7—they alternated between intense practice and strategic rest. Downtime wasn't weakness; it was preparation for the next battle. Ikaho's onsen culture is the physical embodiment of that philosophy: Recover intentionally so you can perform sustainably.

For international visitors doing multi-day Gunma trips, Ikaho offers practical wisdom: If you drive three mountains in one day without recovery, day two will be miserable. Your concentration drops, reaction times slow, mistakes multiply. But if you soak at Ikaho between sessions, flush the lactic acid buildup, reset muscle tension, you can maintain peak performance across multiple days.

One final thought: Not everything in car culture needs to be about cars. Ikaho's stone steps have zero automotive relevance. They're cultural context—a window into why Gunma is the way it is, how mountain towns survive economically, what locals do when they're not driving. Understanding context deepens appreciation. You'll drive Akina better after you've walked Ikaho's steps, not because of technique but because you understand the place you're driving through.

FIRST-TIMER'S CHECKLIST: VISITING IKAHO FROM TOUGE TOWN HQ

Best combined itinerary:

  • Morning: Drive Akina downhill (6:00-7:00 AM from Lake Haruna).
  • Midday: Descend to Ikaho (15 min drive), climb stone steps + onsen soak (8:00-10:00 AM).
  • Afternoon: Return to Touge Town HQ or continue to Akagi/Myogi.

What to bring:

  • Walking shoes with grip (NOT touge driving shoes)—steps are slippery when wet.
  • ¥2,000-3,000 cash—onsen fees, manju snacks, parking (many places don't accept cards).
  • Small towel if you have one (otherwise rent at ryokan for ¥200).
  • Camera for stone steps + torii gate photos (best light: 7-9 AM or 4-6 PM).

Onsen protocol reminder:

  • Shower BEFORE entering communal bath (scrub stations provided).
  • Bathing is nude in gender-separated facilities—no swimsuits.
  • Many ryokan prohibit tattoos (yakuza association)—check policy before paying.
  • Soak 20-30 minutes max—longer risks dizziness from heat + minerals.

Skip if:

  • You're time-constrained (Ikaho adds 2-3 hours to itinerary)—prioritize driving over tourism.
  • You're uncomfortable with communal bathing culture—don't force it.
  • It's Golden Week or Obon—tour bus crowds ruin the atmospheric experience.